Give your car a clean bill of health with a 'pre-holiday' check

Breaking down is always a nuisance, but on holiday it can be a nightmare. Think about it: you miss the ferry and arrive late at your destination, tired and hungry. Your children get fed up and fractious, and paying for the repairs uses up all your holiday money. Worse still, you may miss your holiday altogether and see nothing more exciting than the back of a breakdown truck.

Let's face it, if you usually cover 100 miles a week dawdling around town, then expecting your car to cope with a mammoth 2,000-mile drive could be just asking for trouble.

At peak holiday periods, the UK's major breakdown organisations deal with more than 50,000 calls a day. Yet most faults are simple things - low engine oil or coolant levels, faulty jacks, snapped drivebelts and so on - all of which could easily be avoided by carrying out a vital pre-holiday check.

Don't let your car spoil your holiday: give it a clean bill of health with the assistance of Haynes - a name that is both instantly recognisable and trusted.

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for carrying out all kinds of jobs on the car, including simple tasks such as the 'pre-holiday check' below. For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual.

Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores

Pre-holiday car check-list At least a week before taking your car on holiday, you should carry out a number of simple checks - some of which should be repeated just before you leave.
First, check that your car won't be due for an MOT test or a service whilst you are away. If necessary, get these done before you leave (or save some money and do the service yourself - it?s easier than you think!). Now, with the vehicle on level ground and a cold engine, check all the fluid levels - engine oil and coolant; brake, clutch and power steering reservoirs, plus the screen washer bottle (and automatic transmission fluid if appropriate). Top up if necessary with the oil or fluid detailed in the car's handbook or the Haynes manual. If you check the fluid levels regularly and notice a significant drop in any of them, there may be a leak - get a garage to investigate. Inspect the engine auxiliary drivebelt ('fanbelt') for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Get a new belt fitted (or do it yourself!) if necessary. Carrying a spare belt is a good idea. Check the condition of the tyres carefully, including the one on the spare wheel. This could be a good opportunity to use the jack and ensure that it works properly (it may be missing altogether!). Removing each of the wheels in turn will make it easier to inspect the tyres for cuts, abrasions, bulges or embedded nails or stones. Check the tread depth with an indicator gauge. The UK legal limit of 1.6mm is an absolute minimum and ideally you should replace any tyre with less than 3mm of tread before embarking on a lengthy holiday journey.		Check the wheels to see if they have been damaged by 'kerbing'. A particularly clean patch around the rim could indicate a missing wheel balancing weight. Using a tyre pressure gauge, check the inflation pressure of each tyre. A low reading could indicate a slow puncture, which you should get checked. If you will be driving abroad at sustained high speeds, or loading the car to its maximum, the tyre pressures may need to be raised above normal - the Haynes manual gives details. Now check the condition of the wiper blades. Clean them with a tissue dipped in screen wash concentrate. If they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if they smear a perfectly clean screen, renew them. Make sure all the external lights are functioning - including rear fog lights. You can check brake lights unaided by seeing if they illuminate a wall or garage door. Try the horn too. Finally, clean the windows, inside and out, and wipe the lamp lenses and door mirrors. If you are going on holiday abroad, the Haynes 'Driving Abroad book details the essential equipment - such as a warning triangle, spare bulbs and First Aid kit - that you must carry for particular countries. Put these in an easily accessible place in your vehicle - together with your Haynes manual. Just before you leave, check the tyre pressures and fluid levels again.
Your pre-holiday health check is complete. Bon voyage! There's no need to get overheated Traffic congestion is often a feature of holiday journeys. You shuffle along in a queue of vehicles as the sun beats down - mile after mile at a crawl. Then it happens - the engine boils over and suddenly you’re in holiday hell. Modern cars are very advanced but they still rely on some basic principles. Water is still pumped around the engine and the heat it collects is dissipated through a radiator - which is cooled by the air flowing through it when the car is on the move. When the car is stationary or moving slowly, an electric fan operates automatically to draw air through the radiator. But if the system is not operating perfectly, it will fail at the worst possible moment so that both you and the engine become overheated. However, doing a few simple checks before you set off on that long holiday journey should mean your engine stays cool - and so do you. Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out precautionary checks such as these as well as routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by step information for both basic and more complex tasks. They also tell you what tools you may need and which products are compatible with your make of car. For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores Essential checks to avoid overheating Most modern cars have a coolant reservoir with MAX and MIN markings. With the engine cold, the level in the reservoir should be between these markings. Get into the habit of checking this weekly - the need for frequent topping up suggests a leak in the system. To top up the system, unscrew the reservoir cap slowly when the engine is cold and allow any pressure to escape. (If you do this when the engine is hot, there is a danger of scalding.) Fill to the MAX line (but not above) with a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze. Refit the cap tightly and wipe away any spillage. For topping up, always use antifreeze suitable for your make of car - check the information in your Haynes Service and Repair Manual - and mix it with water. In an emergency, plain water will do but remember it will dilute the antifreeze mixture in the system and thus reduce the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors. The percentage of antifreeze in the system should be checked before the winter (by a garage or with a simple tester available from car accessory shops) and the coolant should be changed every two or three years. On cars where the water pump is driven by an auxiliary drivebelt ('fanbelt'), make sure that this belt is in good condition and correctly tensioned.  See your Haynes manual for details. Note that badges or auxiliary lights mounted ahead of the radiator can restrict the airflow and may lead to overheating. Towing a caravan makes the engine work harder and this too can lead to overheating. And if the engine does overheat... If you are stuck in a traffic jam, keep an eye on the engine temperature gauge. Before it gets into the red, the electric engine cooling fan should come on automatically. If the engine does start to overheat, put the heater on full (maximum heat, highest blower speed) to disperse some heat. Pull over in a safe place and switch the engine off. Check if something is blocking the airflow to the radiator - such as a plastic bag. Lift the bonnet cautiously (beware, the electric cooling fan may still be running) and see if there is steam escaping from a split in a hose or a hole in the radiator. A leaking coolant hose could be secured temporarily with a hose bandage. This will get you out of trouble until a new hose can be fitted. A leaking radiator will have to be replaced eventually, but adding a leak-sealing compound to the coolant reservoir will sometimes fix it for a while. When applicable, check that the water pump drivebelt is not broken or slack. Wait for the engine to cool down before carrying out any repairs or checking the coolant level. Top it up as necessary and proceed cautiously - keeping an eye on the engine temperature gauge. How To Use Jump-Leads Few things are more dispiriting than turning the ignition key and hearing nothing. Just when you need your car to start, it plays dead. Worse still, it's probably your fault. Look at the lights switch - did you leave them on? Modern car batteries are very reliable, but leaving the lights on for a few hours will soon discharge them. Even a boot light or an interior light left on overnight can flatten a battery. And a car left standing for a month or so may discharge its battery just from the current drawn by the alarm. There are other causes of a flat battery - the charging system may be faulty or the battery may simply be worn out. But whatever the cause, the tell-tale signs are headlights that fail to come on or just glow dimly, and an engine that turns slowly or not at all when you rotate the ignition key. Haynes Manuals list the battery in the section on weekly checks for your vehicle. This is astute advice, because battery failure is one of the commonest reasons for calling a breakdown service. Haynes is the world's leading publisher of automotive repair manuals and renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Haynes publishes manuals for more than 500 cars and vans. To start a car with a flat battery, you need a friend and a set of good quality jump-leads. A friend with a set of good quality jump-leads is better still! Your friend must have a car with a battery in good condition, and jump-leads - heavy-duty cables with beefy clamps at each end - are available from good car accessory shops. To jump-start your car, simply follow the instructions below. Do remember that fully discharging a battery will reduce its life - don't be surprised if it needs replacing sooner than you expected. Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for both basic and more complex tasks. For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores   1.  Position another car near yours so that the batteries are close, but do not let the vehicles touch. Switch off the ignition and all electrical equipment on both vehicles, apply the handbrakes, and ensure that the gears are in neutral (manual transmission vehicles) or 'P' for automatics. Open the bonnets.   2.  Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery - do not let the other end of the red lead touch any vehicle metal - and connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the boosting battery.   3.  Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the boosting battery and connect the other end of the black lead to a bolt or metal bracket, well away from the battery, on the engine block of the vehicle to be started.   4.  Ensure that the jump leads cannot come into contact with any moving parts of either engine. Start the engine of the boosting vehicle and run it at a fast idle speed. Now start the engine of your vehicle and check that it is running properly.   5.  Stop the engine of the boosting vehicle only. Switch on the lights, the heated rear window and the heater blower motor on your vehicle - this is to prevent any voltage surges. Disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection, then switch off the lights etc. Close the bonnets.   6.  Now you can drive off. It will take a little time for the alternator to charge the battery fully, so don't stop the engine again too soon and try not to stall it while driving!

How to change a wheel in an emergency

Yes, it will be raining. Yes, you'll be tired and anxious to get home. Yes, you'll be wearing smart clothes. Flat tyres never occur on sunny days, when you have time on your hands or when you're wearing gardening clothes. Fitting the spare wheel yourself is, nevertheless, a good option compared to waiting for a breakdown recovery service - it only takes a few minutes and you will draw admiring glances from passers-by! But you must be prepared. Aside from a working jack and a spare wheel with an inflated tyre, you'll need a pair of gloves, a bit of old carpet to kneel on and a couple of small blocks of wood (about 50mm square). You may need a pair of cutters or a sharp knife, a flat-bladed screwdriver and a special socket for locking wheel nuts/bolts. Oh, and you'll also need a Haynes Owners Workshop Manual or the Haynes 'Your Car' glovebox guide.

Changing a wheel is straightforward, provided you know where the tools and spare wheel are kept, and how to use a jack. If you've just bought the car, or if you have never changed a wheel before, it is worth practising at home - then you'll know exactly what to do if you get a flat tyre.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores

How to change a wheel   

1. Apply the handbrake, engage first gear or set automatic transmission to 'P', then use the blocks of wood to chock the wheel diagonally opposite to the one that is being changed.
2. Put on the gloves, get out the spare wheel, vehicle jack and wheelbrace. They are generally located in the luggage area, under a cover in the floor (see in your car handbook for details).
3. Lay the carpet beside the flat tyre to kneel on. Where applicable, remove the wheel trim/cover - you may need to cut nylon cable ties fitted to stop theft - then prise off the trim or cover with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Use thewheelbrace to loosen each wheel bolt/nut on the affected wheel by about half a turn - if necessary, employing the special socket for any anti-theft bolts or nuts.
4. Engage the jack head in the jacking point nearest the affected wheel (check your Haynes Manual for details). Slide the spare wheel part way under the car, near the wheel to be removed, but out of the way of the jack (this is a safety measure in case the jack slips). Raise the jack until the tyre is 25 to 50mm off the ground.
5. Remove the wheel bolts/nuts, and lift off the wheel. Drag out the spare wheel and slide the removed wheel under the car in its place.
6. Fit the spare wheel, then refit the bolts/nuts and tighten them until they are just holding the wheel firmly. Remove the wheel from under the car, then lower the jack and remove it.
7. Tighten one wheel bolt/nut securely, using the wheelbrace, and then tighten one diagonally or nearly diagonally opposite. Tighten the other one, two or three bolts/nuts in a similar way, and then refit the wheel trim, if applicable.
8. When you've finished, stow the removed wheel and the tools in their correct locations. Check the pressure in the new tyre, with your gauge or at the next available garage. In addition, you should have the wheel bolts/nuts tightened to the correct torque setting. You can do this yourself if you have a torque wrench; otherwise, a local garage or a tyre fitting depot can do it for you.
9. It's important to get the flat tyre repaired or renewed as soon as possible - don't put it off!

Haynes Hints

Positioning a wheel on the hub can be tricky, as you have to support its weight at the same time. If you find this difficult, try resting the wheel on your shoe to help you manoeuvre the wheel into position (but be careful not to hurt your foot).

Spark plugs - routine maintenance and replacing

When it comes to using fuel efficiently, spark plugs are one of the most critical parts of a petrol car’s engine. And they operate in the most hostile environment. Thousands of times per minute, they must spark strongly in each hot and highly pressurised engine cylinder. It’s not surprising that they wear out. But they do so gradually - over tens of thousands of miles.

So, you may not notice the resulting deterioration in performance - the increased fuel consumption and decreased acceleration. Eventually, the signs become more noticeable - misfiring, erratic running and difficult starting. Long before that, the spark plugs should have been replaced. The replacement interval varies depending on the manufacturer; anything from every 10,000 miles to 60,000 miles or more may be specified.

If this sounds like a job for a garage at £60 or more per hour, don’t be put off. Replacing spark plugs is just one of the many DIY tasks covered by Haynes Manuals. Haynes is the world’s leading publisher of automotive repair manuals and renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Haynes publishes manuals for more than 500 cars and vans as well as useful glovebox guides.

Here’s how to replace those spark plugs yourself.  

The car shown has easily accessible plugs. Not all models will be as simple as this and not all will have HT leads. For details applicable to your car, see the relevant Haynes Manual.

You will need a set of spark plugs of the correct type for your car, a spark plug socket and a torque wrench, plus a set of feeler blades or a special spark plug gap setting tool. A short length of flexible hose and some copper grease will also come in handy.

Be warned - switch off the ignition before starting work. Do not attempt to remove spark plugs while the engine is hot - not only may you burn yourself, you could damage the cylinder head.

1. Open the bonnet and remove whatever parts you need to in order to get at the spark plugs and HT (high tension - high voltage) leads. Identify the leads if necessary (they may already be numbered) and disconnect them from the spark plugs by pulling on the connector, not on the lead.
2. Brush or blow away any dirt from around the spark plugs, then unscrew them with the socket and remove them. Have a look at the firing end of each plug: it should be a light brown or grey colour. A spark plug which is black and sooty, or oily, may be a warning of a problem developing.
3. Use the feeler blades or the gap setting tool  to check the electrode gap of the new plugs (see your Haynes manual to find out what the gap should be). Adjust if necessary by carefully bending the side electrode. Some plugs don’t have an adjustable gap, in which case skip this step.
4. Put a smear of copper grease on the threads of each new plug and screw them into their holes. Use a length of flexible hose to start them off - if you get a spark-plug cross-threaded, the hose will slip before you cause any damage.
5. Final tightening of the spark plugs should be done using a torque wrench, otherwise there’s a risk of doing them up either too tight or not tight enough. See your Haynes manual for the torque setting specified for your engine.
6. Reconnect the HT leads, refit any other components and start the engine. If it won’t start, the chances are you’ve connected the HT leads in the wrong order.

Now here’s a tip, similar to the many useful Haynes Hints in the Haynes Service and Repair Manuals. Cleaning spark plugs with a wire brush or an abrasive cleaner is no longer recommended. It can do more harm than good by leaving conductive deposits on the plug’s insulating nose. Modern ignition systems work at very high voltages and the HT current can leak away via deposits left by cleaning.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores

Each time you drive, you trust your life to your car's tyres.

A tyre at incorrect pressure may have less grip, be more likely to puncture and can increase fuel consumption. It will also wear out much faster. Yet surveys show that many cars have one or more tyres incorrectly inflated and few drivers check their tyre condition and pressures regularly enough.

An astonishing 87% of 789 drivers interviewed recently by jamjar cars confessed to forgetfulness when it came to carrying out this basic but vital safety check. And most women, despite being known to be safer drivers, put their lives in greater risk by either neglecting this task or leaving it to others to perform (or not).

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Each manual lists the correct tyre pressures (they vary accordingly to the particular model and the number of passengers and amount of luggage being carried) and explains how to check them - a five-minute task that should be done weekly.

This vital check may save you from returning to your vehicle to find a flat tyre, experiencing a blow-out on the motorway, or even worse, a crash!

Pressures should be checked when the tyres are cold (not driven for at least 30 minutes), so a garage or filling station may not be the most convenient place to do it. It's probably better to make it a regular task you do at home - for which you will require a pressure gauge. A good quality tyre pressure gauge is not expensive and a digital version will be easy to read. Alternatively, you can buy a foot pump with a built-in gauge, or a compressor which runs off the car battery. See a full range instore at your local A1.

Don't forget to check the pressure of the spare tyre. It should normally be inflated to the highest of the pressures quoted for your car (or higher in the case of 'space saver' spares).

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from A1 Motor Stores.

Here's how to check your tyre pressures. First, check the required pressures in your car's handbook or your Haynes manual - make sure you get the figures applicable to your car, and note any differences between normal load conditions (up to three people) and fully laden. Taking each wheel in turn, use a piece of rag to wipe the dirt from around the tyre valve. Unscrew and remove the valve dust cap. If a dust cap is missing, get a new one - don't do without it, because it prevents dirt entering the valve. Push the head of your tyre pressure gauge firmly onto the valve so that no air can be heard escaping. Remove the gauge to check the reading. If it is too low and you have a foot pump or compressor, push the nozzle onto the valve and secure it in place with the locking lever. If your pump has a built-in gauge, it will show the tyre pressure so you don't need to use a separate gauge. Inflate the tyre, then unlock and remove the nozzle. Use your tyre pressure gauge again. If the pressure is now too high, you need to gently depress the pin in the centre of the valve. Your tyre pressuregauge may have a conical end for doing this. Alternatively, you can use a small screwdriver or even a key. Don't forget to replace the valve dust cap. If one tyre is found to have a pressure much lower than it should, or needs pumping up regularly, it may have a slow puncture or a leaky valve. Get this checked before it becomes serious. While you are about it, look at each tyre and wheel to check for damage. Check the tread depth with an indicator gauge. The UK legal limit of 1.6mm is an absolute minimum and ideally you should replace any tyre with less than 3mm of tread.

Drive safely this winter

Global warming may be melting the polar ice caps but UK winters still bring dark nights, fog, rain, snow - and danger.

In fact about 50% of all reported nighttime road traffic accidents occur in wet conditions; however in the UK it is wet on average only one night in ten. Or, to put it another way, after dark a motorist is nine times more likely to be involved in an accident if it's wet. Add in hail, sleet and snow and these are just the conditions which are likely to bring the most car breakdowns. The AA expects to attend to more than 10, 000 breakdowns a day in January!

Unless you intend to hibernate, you should prepare your car and yourself for bad weather. There are some simple DIY checks to ensure your vehicle is a safe as possible this winter.

Prepare your car for winter  

Here are some of the things you can do quickly and easily:

1. Check the operation of all exterior lights and keep them clean. Replacing failed bulbs or fuses is usually straightforward.
2. Clean the windscreen and windows, inside and out, regularly. Use a cleaner intended for car glass - household window cleaners can leave a smeary film.
3. Check the condition of wiper blades (which are simple to replace) and windscreen washers. Keep the washer reservoir topped up and use an additive with antifreeze properties.
4. Each week and before long journeys, check the tyre pressures (including the spare wheel). Check also the tread depth - 1.6mm is the legal minimum but for good grip on wet roads, it's better to replace tyres once the tread depth is 2.0mm.
5. If you expect to do a lot of driving on snow-covered roads, consider buying a spare set of wheels with tyres especially designed for these conditions. In the Alps, it is a legal requirement to carry a pair of snow chains and fit them when conditions demand.
6. Check the level in the coolant reservoir and top up as necessary with a water/antifreeze solution. The coolant (with antifreeze) should be changed every two or three years.
7. Ensure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. You may get a free battery and charging system check at an A1 Motor Store . Don't wait for your battery to fail - replace it in good time.
8. Carry an emergency kit - spare fuses and bulbs, jump leads, a torch, water dispersant spray and de-icer.
9. On slippery roads, drive slowly, smoothly and gently. Accelerate gradually, steer gently and brake smoothly. Arrange tuition on a skid-pan through your local driving school or the Institute of Advanced Motorists.
10.   When parking overnight in freezing conditions, leave your car in gear with the handbrake off if it is safe to do so. This will prevent the handbrake freezing in the 'on' position.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from A1 Motor Stores

See clearly through winter

Here's how to deal with Jack Frost  

1. Equip yourself with de-icer sprays and a couple of good window scrapers. Keep one set in the car for when you are out and another set at home for the mornings.
2. Consider buying an all-weather windscreen shield. It will protect your vehicle's windscreen from frost and can be used in the summer to shade the interior from bright sunlight.
3. Don't bother putting a blanket or newspaper on the windscreen - if it rains or snows in the night, you'll end up with a soggy mess.
4. Don't leave the engine running while stationary to defrost the windscreen - this wastes fuel and can increase engine wear.
5. You can use warm but not boiling water poured over the windows to defrost them. Watch out though, it could freeze on the ground and form an ice slick.
6. A good way to defrost a car, and warm the interior until the heater takes over, is to place a small electric fan heater inside for a few minutes. Make sure you connect it safely though - use an extension lead intended for outdoor use, protected by an RCD (earth trip).
7. Lift wiper blades carefully away from the windscreen and rear window, so that they are not frozen in place.
8. To unfreeze a door lock, warm the key gently before inserting it - place it on a radiator or use a lighter flame. Alternatively, spray a little de-icer into the lock.
9. Be careful about using windscreen washers on a cold screen - the liquid may freeze. On some cars, the wipers are automatically activated with the windscreen washers. If the washer jets have frozen, the wipers will scrape across a dry windscreen. Spray a little de-icer on the jets, or carefully clear the nozzles with a pin before you drive off.
10.  Don't forget to defrost the exterior mirrors. There's normally no need to defrost headlamps or light units - they get warm enough once switched on - but do brush away any accumulated snow.

Now here's a tip, similar to the many useful Haynes Hints in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manuals. Make things easier for the battery by not switching on lights, the heater blower or the heated rear window until the engine is running. When you finish your journey, switch off the electrical accessories before stopping the engine.

Beat the petrol price rises with A1 Motor Stores top ways to cheaper motoring

Saving petrol makes economic sense. Prices at petrol pumps continue to rise and fuel, both diesel and petrol, is now more expensive than ever and prices are likely to continue rising. Monitoring fuel economy is more important than ever.

There are other considerations too. Petrol and diesel vehicles produce carbon dioxide - a 'greenhouse' gas which has a significant effect on global warming and climate change. Pollution from cars may also adversely affect the health of vulnerable people - the elderly, asthmatics and those with heart or lung diseases.

The best way to save money and the planet is to use your car less. One major insurance company is already considering 'pay as you go' motor insurance to make leaving your car at home even more attractive. Car sharing clubs are becoming more popular and many people are opting to work from home instead of commuting daily. Another easy way to save money is to spend some - on a Haynes automotive repair manual!

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by step information for both basic and more complex tasks. There are more than 300 Haynes service and repair manuals available, covering both modern and classic cars, motorcycles and vans.

From the viewpoint of improving fuel economy, each manual contains detailed instructions for maintaining the efficiency of your vehicle. There are sections about checking tyre pressures and how to spot wheel misalignment, and of course there are step-by-step instructions on how to renew critical service items such as air filters and spark plugs.

How to avoid the won`t start nightmare

Few things are more instantly depressing than a car that will not start. You turn the key in expectation and are rewarded with - nothing! Battery failure is the number one reason motorists call a breakdown service. And it is just one of many common faults that are caused by a lack of basic maintenance.

Of course, having your vehicle serviced regularly is important but it does not stop there. Over the past ten years, manufacturers have increased the service intervals, therefore there is an even greater need to carry out safety and maintenance checks in between these long periods. Carrying out such checks will help avoid unwelcome bills and minimise the expense or the inconvenience of a breakdown.

Although many car owners believe that modern cars are too complicated for them to work on, this is not so. Routine tasks can be done by anybody - if they know what they are doing. Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for both basic and more complex tasks.

A flat battery and how to replace it.

Modern car electrical systems put big demands on the battery. Sometimes a battery will fail with no warning, but usually the first sign of trouble is that the engine is reluctant to start when cold, with the starter motor turning more slowly than usual. This is then followed by a failure to start at all.

There are three main reasons for a battery to be flat. One is old age, in which case fitting a new battery will cure the problem. The second is leaving the lights on (or even the radio or alarm, if parked for a long time); generally a jump-start will put things right - although the life of the battery will be shorter following a complete discharge. The third is a problem with the charging system; fitting a new battery won't cure that.

A Haynes Service and Repair Manual gives simple tests so that you can identify the reason for your flat battery.

Replacing a Battery  

You'll need a new battery of the correct size and capacity to fit your car. If you plan to use it straight away, it needs to be charged - ask when you buy it. Buy some copper grease or special battery terminal corrosion protector spray too.

Warning: Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which is poisonous and causes burns; they give off hydrogen gas, which is explosive when mixed with air; when charged they contain enough electrical energy to cause burns or fires if short-circuited. Follow all precautions specified by the manufacturer.

1. Disconnect the electrical leads from the old battery, negative (earth) first (look for a '-' sign near the battery terminal). Undo the fixing clamp nut or bolt - details vary for each car - and lift out the battery. Be careful not to drop it, and keep it upright to avoid acid spillage.
2. Fit the new battery, secure it with the clamp and connect the electrical leads, negative (earth) last. Protect the terminals against corrosion by smearing them with copper grease or using an anti-corrosion spray.
3. Check that the negative (earth) lead connection to the car body is clean and tight. Unbolt it and clean it with a wire brush or abrasive paper, if necessary.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from A1 Motor Stores

Oil Check  

One of the simplest weekly checks on your car could be very expensive if you ignore it. Yet research by oil company Comma showed that 60% of motorists only do it every two months and 10% not at all.

Checking the engine oil level is one of the many simple tasks covered in detail in Haynes Manuals and you shouldn't wait two months(or until the warning light comes on!) - see below for how to check the oil level. There are other simple weekly checks explained in Haynes Manuals - coolant, brake and power steering fluid levels, washer fluid top-up, tyre pressures, wiper blades and lights. Just a couple of minutes checking these things could save you from a breakdown or an on-the-spot fine.

1. Make sure your car is on level ground
2. Check the level before the car is driven, or at least five minutes after the engine has been switched off (to avoid a false reading)
3. Open the bonnet and withdraw the dipstick from its tube (the owner's handbook or the Haynes manual for your vehicle will show where it is located)
4. Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe the oil from the dipstick
5. Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as far as it will go and then withdraw it again. Note the oil level on the dipstick: it should be between the MAX and MIN marks (for details of the marks see your handbook or manual)
6.  If the level is below or only slightly above the MIN mark, topping up is required. The Haynes Manual will show you how to do this and with what specification of oil.

Drive with clear vision

 Rain, snow, dead bugs and bird poo - your car's wiper blades have to cope with it all. And it's vital they do - unless your windscreen is clear, you are a danger to yourself and others.

Split, cracked or perished wiper blades will lead to an MOT test failure, but they should be checked much more frequently than once a year. In fact, Haynes Manuals list wiper blades in the section on weekly checks for your vehicle.

Haynes is the world's leading publisher of automotive repair manuals and renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Haynes publishes manuals for more than 300 models of cars and vans as well as useful glovebox guides such as 'Your Car'. Many DIY maintenance tasks are very straightforward and take only a few minutes. Replacing wiper blades is one of them and you'll hardly get your hands dirty. First, check the condition of each of the wipers on your car - don't forget the one for the rear screen and those little ones on the headlamps (if fitted). If any need renewing, measure the lengths of the blades in inches (rounded up to the nearest whole number). Now go shopping!

These days, new wiper blades (the rubber strips) come ready fitted to their metal mountings. If yours is an older or a classic car, you may be able to replace only the rubber portions, but it's a fiddly business. Renewing the whole blade is generally a better bet.

Buy the wiper blades to suit your exact year and model of vehicle - double-checking the lengths with your measurements. Note that some cars have wiper blades fitted with wind deflectors, and that some have different length blades on each side.

Fitting New Windscreen Wipers

(Courtesy of Haynes Service & Repair Manuals)
Now follow these simple steps to fit the replacement wiper blades. The only tool you may need is a small screwdriver for dealing with the securing clips.

The type of clip we show here is typical but they do vary - see your Haynes Service and Repair Manual for details of the type fitted to your car.

1.      With the ignition off, unwrap your new blades and double check that they are the correct replacements. Lay them carefully on the bonnet - orientated correctly to the old blades, as this will help you fit them the right way round. Lift the wiper arm away from the screen until it locks in the upright position, or just hold on to it.

2.      Turn the old blade at right angles and unhook it; it may be necessary to depress one or two securing tabs to release it.

3.      If necessary, fit the correct plastic adaptor to the new blade - look on the packet for details. (Some blades come with the correct adaptor ready fitted.)

4.      Fit the blade to the arm, making sure it's fully home. Lower the blade gently on to the screen; wet the glass and check for correct operation.

There, it's as simple as that! If smearing is still a problem despite fitting new wiper blades, try cleaning the glass with a proprietary screen cleaner or a little undiluted screenwash additive.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals available from A1 Motor Stores

Give your car a clean bill of health

with a  'pre-holiday' check

Breaking down is always a nuisance, but on holiday it can be a nightmare. Think about it: you miss the ferry and arrive late at your destination, tired and hungry. Your children get fed up and fractious, and paying for the repairs uses up all your holiday money. Worse still, you may miss your holiday altogether and see nothing more exciting than the back of a breakdown truck.

Let's face it, if you usually cover 100 miles a week dawdling around town, then expecting your car to cope with a mammoth 2,000-mile drive could be just asking for trouble.

At peak holiday periods, the UK's major breakdown organisations deal with more than 50,000 calls a day. Yet most faults are simple things - low engine oil or coolant levels, faulty jacks, snapped drivebelts and so on - all of which could easily be avoided by carrying out a vital pre-holiday check.

Don't let your car spoil your holiday: give it a clean bill of health with the assistance of Haynes - a name that is both instantly recognisable and trusted.

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for carrying out all kinds of jobs on the car, including simple tasks such as the 'pre-holiday check' below. For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual.

Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores

Pre-holiday car check-list At least a week before taking your car on holiday, you should carry out a number of simple checks - some of which should be repeated just before you leave.
First, check that your car won't be due for an MOT test or a service whilst you are away. If necessary, get these done before you leave (or save some money and do the service yourself - it?s easier than you think!). Now, with the vehicle on level ground and a cold engine, check all the fluid levels - engine oil and coolant; brake, clutch and power steering reservoirs, plus the screen washer bottle (and automatic transmission fluid if appropriate). Top up if necessary with the oil or fluid detailed in the car's handbook or the Haynes manual. If you check the fluid levels regularly and notice a significant drop in any of them, there may be a leak - get a garage to investigate. Inspect the engine auxiliary drivebelt ('fanbelt') for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Get a new belt fitted (or do it yourself!) if necessary. Carrying a spare belt is a good idea. Check the condition of the tyres carefully, including the one on the spare wheel. This could be a good opportunity to use the jack and ensure that it works properly (it may be missing altogether!). Removing each of the wheels in turn will make it easier to inspect the tyres for cuts, abrasions, bulges or embedded nails or stones. Check the tread depth with an indicator gauge. The UK legal limit of 1.6mm is an absolute minimum and ideally you should replace any tyre with less than 3mm of tread before embarking on a lengthy holiday journey.		Check the wheels to see if they have been damaged by 'kerbing'. A particularly clean patch around the rim could indicate a missing wheel balancing weight. Using a tyre pressure gauge, check the inflation pressure of each tyre. A low reading could indicate a slow puncture, which you should get checked. If you will be driving abroad at sustained high speeds, or loading the car to its maximum, the tyre pressures may need to be raised above normal - the Haynes manual gives details. Now check the condition of the wiper blades. Clean them with a tissue dipped in screen wash concentrate. If they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if they smear a perfectly clean screen, renew them. Make sure all the external lights are functioning - including rear fog lights. You can check brake lights unaided by seeing if they illuminate a wall or garage door. Try the horn too. Finally, clean the windows, inside and out, and wipe the lamp lenses and door mirrors. If you are going on holiday abroad, the Haynes 'Driving Abroad book details the essential equipment - such as a warning triangle, spare bulbs and First Aid kit - that you must carry for particular countries. Put these in an easily accessible place in your vehicle - together with your Haynes manual. Just before you leave, check the tyre pressures and fluid levels again.
Your pre-holiday health check is complete. Bon voyage!       There's no need to get overheated Traffic congestion is often a feature of holiday journeys. You shuffle along in a queue of vehicles as the sun beats down - mile after mile at a crawl. Then it happens - the engine boils over and suddenly you’re in holiday hell. Modern cars are very advanced but they still rely on some basic principles. Water is still pumped around the engine and the heat it collects is dissipated through a radiator - which is cooled by the air flowing through it when the car is on the move. When the car is stationary or moving slowly, an electric fan operates automatically to draw air through the radiator. But if the system is not operating perfectly, it will fail at the worst possible moment so that both you and the engine become overheated. However, doing a few simple checks before you set off on that long holiday journey should mean your engine stays cool - and so do you. Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out precautionary checks such as these as well as routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by step information for both basic and more complex tasks. They also tell you what tools you may need and which products are compatible with your make of car. For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores Essential checks to avoid overheating Most modern cars have a coolant reservoir with MAX and MIN markings. With the engine cold, the level in the reservoir should be between these markings. Get into the habit of checking this weekly - the need for frequent topping up suggests a leak in the system. To top up the system, unscrew the reservoir cap slowly when the engine is cold and allow any pressure to escape. (If you do this when the engine is hot, there is a danger of scalding.) Fill to the MAX line (but not above) with a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze. Refit the cap tightly and wipe away any spillage. For topping up, always use antifreeze suitable for your make of car - check the information in your Haynes Service and Repair Manual - and mix it with water. In an emergency, plain water will do but remember it will dilute the antifreeze mixture in the system and thus reduce the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors. The percentage of antifreeze in the system should be checked before the winter (by a garage or with a simple tester available from car accessory shops) and the coolant should be changed every two or three years. On cars where the water pump is driven by an auxiliary drivebelt ('fanbelt'), make sure that this belt is in good condition and correctly tensioned.  See your Haynes manual for details. Note that badges or auxiliary lights mounted ahead of the radiator can restrict the airflow and may lead to overheating. Towing a caravan makes the engine work harder and this too can lead to overheating. And if the engine does overheat... If you are stuck in a traffic jam, keep an eye on the engine temperature gauge. Before it gets into the red, the electric engine cooling fan should come on automatically. If the engine does start to overheat, put the heater on full (maximum heat, highest blower speed) to disperse some heat. Pull over in a safe place and switch the engine off. Check if something is blocking the airflow to the radiator - such as a plastic bag. Lift the bonnet cautiously (beware, the electric cooling fan may still be running) and see if there is steam escaping from a split in a hose or a hole in the radiator. A leaking coolant hose could be secured temporarily with a hose bandage. This will get you out of trouble until a new hose can be fitted. A leaking radiator will have to be replaced eventually, but adding a leak-sealing compound to the coolant reservoir will sometimes fix it for a while. When applicable, check that the water pump drivebelt is not broken or slack. Wait for the engine to cool down before carrying out any repairs or checking the coolant level. Top it up as necessary and proceed cautiously - keeping an eye on the engine temperature gauge.   How To Use Jump-Leads Few things are more dispiriting than turning the ignition key and hearing nothing. Just when you need your car to start, it plays dead. Worse still, it's probably your fault. Look at the lights switch - did you leave them on? Modern car batteries are very reliable, but leaving the lights on for a few hours will soon discharge them. Even a boot light or an interior light left on overnight can flatten a battery. And a car left standing for a month or so may discharge its battery just from the current drawn by the alarm. There are other causes of a flat battery - the charging system may be faulty or the battery may simply be worn out. But whatever the cause, the tell-tale signs are headlights that fail to come on or just glow dimly, and an engine that turns slowly or not at all when you rotate the ignition key. Haynes Manuals list the battery in the section on weekly checks for your vehicle. This is astute advice, because battery failure is one of the commonest reasons for calling a breakdown service. Haynes is the world's leading publisher of automotive repair manuals and renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Haynes publishes manuals for more than 500 cars and vans. To start a car with a flat battery, you need a friend and a set of good quality jump-leads. A friend with a set of good quality jump-leads is better still! Your friend must have a car with a battery in good condition, and jump-leads - heavy-duty cables with beefy clamps at each end - are available from good car accessory shops. To jump-start your car, simply follow the instructions below. Do remember that fully discharging a battery will reduce its life - don't be surprised if it needs replacing sooner than you expected. Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for both basic and more complex tasks. For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores   1.  Position another car near yours so that the batteries are close, but do not let the vehicles touch. Switch off the ignition and all electrical equipment on both vehicles, apply the handbrakes, and ensure that the gears are in neutral (manual transmission vehicles) or 'P' for automatics. Open the bonnets.   2.  Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery - do not let the other end of the red lead touch any vehicle metal - and connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the boosting battery.   3.  Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the boosting battery and connect the other end of the black lead to a bolt or metal bracket, well away from the battery, on the engine block of the vehicle to be started.   4.  Ensure that the jump leads cannot come into contact with any moving parts of either engine. Start the engine of the boosting vehicle and run it at a fast idle speed. Now start the engine of your vehicle and check that it is running properly.   5.  Stop the engine of the boosting vehicle only. Switch on the lights, the heated rear window and the heater blower motor on your vehicle - this is to prevent any voltage surges. Disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection, then switch off the lights etc. Close the bonnets.   6.  Now you can drive off. It will take a little time for the alternator to charge the battery fully, so don't stop the engine again too soon and try not to stall it while driving!

How to change a wheel in an emergency

Yes, it will be raining. Yes, you'll be tired and anxious to get home. Yes, you'll be wearing smart clothes. Flat tyres never occur on sunny days, when you have time on your hands or when you're wearing gardening clothes. Fitting the spare wheel yourself is, nevertheless, a good option compared to waiting for a breakdown recovery service - it only takes a few minutes and you will draw admiring glances from passers-by! But you must be prepared. Aside from a working jack and a spare wheel with an inflated tyre, you'll need a pair of gloves, a bit of old carpet to kneel on and a couple of small blocks of wood (about 50mm square). You may need a pair of cutters or a sharp knife, a flat-bladed screwdriver and a special socket for locking wheel nuts/bolts. Oh, and you'll also need a Haynes Owners Workshop Manual or the Haynes 'Your Car' glovebox guide.

Changing a wheel is straightforward, provided you know where the tools and spare wheel are kept, and how to use a jack. If you've just bought the car, or if you have never changed a wheel before, it is worth practising at home - then you'll know exactly what to do if you get a flat tyre.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores

How to change a wheel   

1. Apply the handbrake, engage first gear or set automatic transmission to 'P', then use the blocks of wood to chock the wheel diagonally opposite to the one that is being changed.
2. Put on the gloves, get out the spare wheel, vehicle jack and wheelbrace. They are generally located in the luggage area, under a cover in the floor (see in your car handbook for details).
3. Lay the carpet beside the flat tyre to kneel on. Where applicable, remove the wheel trim/cover - you may need to cut nylon cable ties fitted to stop theft - then prise off the trim or cover with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Use the wheelbrace to loosen each wheel bolt/nut on the affected wheel by about half a turn - if necessary, employing the special socket for any anti-theft bolts or nuts.
4. Engage the jack head in the jacking point nearest the affected wheel (check your Haynes Manual for details). Slide the spare wheel part way under the car, near the wheel to be removed, but out of the way of the jack (this is a safety measure in case the jack slips). Raise the jack until the tyre is 25 to 50mm off the ground.
5. Remove the wheel bolts/nuts, and lift off the wheel. Drag out the spare wheel and slide the removed wheel under the car in its place.
6. Fit the spare wheel, then refit the bolts/nuts and tighten them until they are just holding the wheel firmly. Remove the wheel from under the car, then lower the jack and remove it.
7. Tighten one wheel bolt/nut securely, using the wheelbrace, and then tighten one diagonally or nearly diagonally opposite. Tighten the other one, two or three bolts/nuts in a similar way, and then refit the wheel trim, if applicable.
8. When you've finished, stow the removed wheel and the tools in their correct locations. Check the pressure in the new tyre, with your gauge or at the next available garage. In addition, you should have the wheel bolts/nuts tightened to the correct torque setting. You can do this yourself if you have a torque wrench; otherwise, a local garage or a tyre fitting depot can do it for you.
9. It's important to get the flat tyre repaired or renewed as soon as possible - don't put it off!

Haynes Hints

Positioning a wheel on the hub can be tricky, as you have to support its weight at the same time. If you find this difficult, try resting the wheel on your shoe to help you manoeuvre the wheel into position (but be careful not to hurt your foot).

Spark plugs - routine maintenance and replacing

When it comes to using fuel efficiently, spark plugs are one of the most critical parts of a petrol car’s engine. And they operate in the most hostile environment. Thousands of times per minute, they must spark strongly in each hot and highly pressurised engine cylinder. It’s not surprising that they wear out. But they do so gradually - over tens of thousands of miles.

So, you may not notice the resulting deterioration in performance - the increased fuel consumption and decreased acceleration. Eventually, the signs become more noticeable - misfiring, erratic running and difficult starting. Long before that, the spark plugs should have been replaced. The replacement interval varies depending on the manufacturer; anything from every 10,000 miles to 60,000 miles or more may be specified.

If this sounds like a job for a garage at £60 or more per hour, don’t be put off. Replacing spark plugs is just one of the many DIY tasks covered by Haynes Manuals. Haynes is the world’s leading publisher of automotive repair manuals and renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Haynes publishes manuals for more than 500 cars and vans as well as useful glovebox guides.

Here’s how to replace those spark plugs yourself.  

The car shown has easily accessible plugs. Not all models will be as simple as this and not all will have HT leads. For details applicable to your car, see the relevant Haynes Manual.

You will need a set of spark plugs of the correct type for your car, a spark plug socket and a torque wrench, plus a set of feeler blades or a special spark plug gap setting tool. A short length of flexible hose and some copper grease will also come in handy.

Be warned - switch off the ignition before starting work. Do not attempt to remove spark plugs while the engine is hot - not only may you burn yourself, you could damage the cylinder head.

1. Open the bonnet and remove whatever parts you need to in order to get at the spark plugs and HT (high tension - high voltage) leads. Identify the leads if necessary (they may already be numbered) and disconnect them from the spark plugs by pulling on the connector, not on the lead.
2. Brush or blow away any dirt from around the spark plugs, then unscrew them with the socket and remove them. Have a look at the firing end of each plug: it should be a light brown or grey colour. A spark plug which is black and sooty, or oily, may be a warning of a problem developing.
3. Use the feeler blades or the gap setting tool  to check the electrode gap of the new plugs (see your Haynes manual to find out what the gap should be). Adjust if necessary by carefully bending the side electrode. Some plugs don’t have an adjustable gap, in which case skip this step.
4. Put a smear of copper grease on the threads of each new plug and screw them into their holes. Use a length of flexible hose to start them off - if you get a spark-plug cross-threaded, the hose will slip before you cause any damage.
5. Final tightening of the spark plugs should be done using a torque wrench, otherwise there’s a risk of doing them up either too tight or not tight enough. See your Haynes manual for the torque setting specified for your engine.
6. Reconnect the HT leads, refit any other components and start the engine. If it won’t start, the chances are you’ve connected the HT leads in the wrong order.

Now here’s a tip, similar to the many useful Haynes Hints in the Haynes Service and Repair Manuals. Cleaning spark plugs with a wire brush or an abrasive cleaner is no longer recommended. It can do more harm than good by leaving conductive deposits on the plug’s insulating nose. Modern ignition systems work at very high voltages and the HT current can leak away via deposits left by cleaning.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from this website and all A1 Motor Stores

Each time you drive, you trust your life to your car's tyres.

A tyre at incorrect pressure may have less grip, be more likely to puncture and can increase fuel consumption. It will also wear out much faster. Yet surveys show that many cars have one or more tyres incorrectly inflated and few drivers check their tyre condition and pressures regularly enough.

An astonishing 87% of 789 drivers interviewed recently by jamjar cars confessed to forgetfulness when it came to carrying out this basic but vital safety check. And most women, despite being known to be safer drivers, put their lives in greater risk by either neglecting this task or leaving it to others to perform (or not).

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Each manual lists the correct tyre pressures (they vary accordingly to the particular model and the number of passengers and amount of luggage being carried) and explains how to check them - a five-minute task that should be done weekly.

This vital check may save you from returning to your vehicle to find a flat tyre, experiencing a blow-out on the motorway, or even worse, a crash!

Pressures should be checked when the tyres are cold (not driven for at least 30 minutes), so a garage or filling station may not be the most convenient place to do it. It's probably better to make it a regular task you do at home - for which you will require a pressure gauge. A good quality tyre pressure gauge is not expensive and a digital version will be easy to read. Alternatively, you can buy a foot pump with a built-in gauge, or a compressor which runs off the car battery. See a full range instore at your local A1.

Don't forget to check the pressure of the spare tyre. It should normally be inflated to the highest of the pressures quoted for your car (or higher in the case of 'space saver' spares).

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals are available from A1 Motor Stores.

Here's how to check your tyre pressures. First, check the required pressures in your car's handbook or your Haynes manual - make sure you get the figures applicable to your car, and note any differences between normal load conditions (up to three people) and fully laden. Taking each wheel in turn, use a piece of rag to wipe the dirt from around the tyre valve. Unscrew and remove the valve dust cap. If a dust cap is missing, get a new one - don't do without it, because it prevents dirt entering the valve. Push the head of your tyre pressure gauge firmly onto the valve so that no air can be heard escaping. Remove the gauge to check the reading. If it is too low and you have a foot pump or compressor, push the nozzle onto the valve and secure it in place with the locking lever. If your pump has a built-in gauge, it will show the tyre pressure so you don't need to use a separate gauge. Inflate the tyre, then unlock and remove the nozzle. Use your tyre pressure gauge again. If the pressure is now too high, you need to gently depress the pin in the centre of the valve. Your tyre pressure gauge may have a conical end for doing this. Alternatively, you can use a small screwdriver or even a key. Don't forget to replace the valve dust cap. If one tyre is found to have a pressure much lower than it should, or needs pumping up regularly, it may have a slow puncture or a leaky valve. Get this checked before it becomes serious. While you are about it, look at each tyre and wheel to check for damage. Check the tread depth with an indicator gauge. The UK legal limit of 1.6mm is an absolute minimum and ideally you should replace any tyre with less than 3mm of tread.